Issue #1

Keep It Stitching: dealing with skipped stitches

Hi Reader,

Every machine that leaves my workbench gets tested to make sure it’s in proper working condition. Even so, skipped stitches, unbalanced tension, and puckered seams can creep in later. The good news? You can solve most of these issues at home.

Here’s what I’d check first:

1. Match the needle to your project

When I service a machine, I put in a Schmetz Universal 80/12, suitable for 50-weight cotton thread and two layers of woven cotton. Sewing a knit or stretch fabric? A Universal needle can cause skipped stitches, tension issues, so you'll need a ball point. Make sure the needle is facing the right way and fully seated. Your manual will show you how.

2. Use the correct bobbin

If you own more than one machine, it’s easy to mix up bobbins. Not sure what type yours takes? Email me, and I’ll point you in the right direction.

3. Seat the bobbin correctly

A bobbin in the wrong position or direction can mean poor stitches or no sewing at all. Check your manual to be sure.

4. Rethread with the presser foot up

Sometimes pulling out the top thread and rethreading fixes everything, especially if the thread wasn’t passing through the upper tension disks. Raise the presser foot first so the thread can seat between the disks.

5. Look hard at your thread

Old, brittle thread (on a wooden spool, a tiny plastic spool, or with a dated-looking label) can break easily. Retire it to a vintage display or craft project and try a fresh spool.

Likewise, I don't recommend bargain-bin or store-brand thread. Because it has a very short staple (the fibers that are twisted to make the thread), it breaks easily.

Coats & Clark spools, the brand most readily available at big box stores, have plastic edges that often have burrs. These can snag the thread and cause skipped stitches and breaks, so you may need to run a bit of sandpaper or a nail file over the edge to smooth it.

For standard sewing, piecing, and quilting, my top recommended brands are Aurifil, Gütermann, Mettler, Superior, Sulky, and Quilters Select.

Bonus Tip

If your seams pucker on a straight stitch, use a single-hole needle plate if your machine has one. For buttonholes or zigzag, put a stabilizer or lightweight interfacing under the fabric.